After packing up camp in the cold, we set out for a leisurely day of driving part of Utah Scenic Route 12. We only had about 60 miles to go for the day. After passing through Tropic and leaving Bryce Canyon behind, you quickly begin to descend and you are soon surrounded by "lower" rock layers. I found a good turnout to get photos to help visualize how the Grand Staircase is situated, and slopes downward as you get closer to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. The red layers you see in the upper right of this photo is the same layers that Bryce Canyon sits in.
This particular area with the grey mudstone/clay has become famous for holding lots and lots of fossils. Sea creatures and dinosaurs have all been found in massive burial sites in these very cliffs. More than likely this area was a dumping ground during the flood for the massive amounts of sediment laden waters carrying the dead/dying animals. When the land was raised upward out of the water, the rush of liquid flowing off the continents exposed and scoured out this area of the country.
We made it to Escalante and had a few hours to kill before we could check into our cabin, so we decided to check out two areas. The first was the Hole-In-The-Rock Escalante Heritage Center right outside town. This place tells the fascinating history of some of Utah's early Mormon pioneers. The remote, rugged, and extremely hazardous terrain presented many challenges back in the day. A group of 250 men, women, and children left the settlement of Escalante with the goal of blazing a trail to the far Southeast corner of Utah, near the San Juan River. They blazed a wagon trail through the area along which the now named "Hole in the Rock Road" mostly follows. The "Hole" part comes in when the group reached the Colorado River 1,800 feet below them. Scouting revealed only one natural break in the canyon anywhere in the area. The catch was it wasn't quite large enough for the wagons to pass through. It took the settlers 6 long weeks of back-breaking work to blast and chisel the gap wide enough for them to pass through. When it was all said and done, they basically slid their wagons down in controlled falls using ropes and friction to navigate the gap.
After our visit to the Heritage Center we went back to the West side of Escalante and visited Escalante Petrified Forest State Park.
Looking back now, I can't say I was particularly impressed with this park. Despite their public hours saying they were open, there were no staff around to open the visitor center or provide information and guides on the hiking opportunities. No reasons were made available on why this happened. We ended up hiking the petrified forest loop which is pretty steep to get up onto a plateau. You would think with a name like "Petrified Forest" there would be lots of trees, but that wasn't the case. In fact, until the very end of the loop trail you hardly see any. Certainly some of the specimens are impressive, but I probably wouldn't do the hike again. I would go visit the National Park site in Arizona (which I haven't been to yet).
By this point we were hot, tired, and ready for showers and clean clothes. We got checked into our small cabin in Escalante and spent the rest of the afternoon/evening getting clean, doing laundry, and gorging ourselves on hamburgers & milkshakes at the local Nemo's Drive Thru.
In the morning we whipped up a filling pancake breakfast and then headed out to finish our drive on HWY 12. The route took us through more of the Northern tip of Grand Staircase-Escalante N.M, ultimately sending us up North to Capitol Reef.
Words really can't describe how beautiful and rugged the scenery became once we left Escalante. It's almost like being on another planet and it's crazy to me how a worldwide flood meant to judge sin upon the world can still bring beauty to our surroundings. It is literally nothing but rock and they built a highway through this area.
After a ways you drop down into the Escalante River & Calf Creek Canyon area. I didn't get any photos from inside the canyons as you drive along, but take my word that it is very scenic and there are a multitude of hiking opportunities in this area. We didn't do any because they are a bit longer distance and we had decided we wanted to spend most of our time in Capitol Reef.